It’s fun to be travelling as a small group – we’re rented a car and can stay in a hotel (rather than hostel) and split the costs.

One of Lisbon’s icons which we were keen to see is the fortress like sé, built in 1150 on the site of a mosque soon after Christians recaptured the city from the Moors.  It was restored in the 1930s. Despite the masses outside, the rib-vaulted interior, lit by a rose window, is calm.

The cathedral with gargoyles looked interesting but we didn’t actually go inside.

Spread across steep hillsides that overlook the Rio Tejo, Lisbon has captivated visitors for centuries. Windswept vistas reveal the city in all its beauty: Roman and Moorish ruins, white-domed cathedrals, grand plazas lined with sun-drenched cafes. The real delight of discovery though, is delving into the narrow cobblestone lanes.

As yellow trams clatter through tree-lined streets, lisboêtas stroll through lamplit old quarters, much as they’ve done for centuries.

The main square is impressive (Praça do Comércio). With its grand 18th-century arcades, lemon-meringue facades and mosaic cobbles, the riverfront Praça do Comércio is a square to out-pomp them all.

In 1908, the square witnessed the fall of the monarchy, when anarchists assassinated Dom Carlos I and his son. The biggest crowd-puller is Verissimo da Costa’s triumphal Arco da Victória , crowned with bigwigs such as 15th-century explorer Vasco da Gama; come at dusk to see the arch glow gold

We made a stop at the famous Pastelaria Versailles. This is a 1920’s tea house with old fashioned grandeur, and an incredible display counter full of gorgeous baked goods. The Portuguese custard tarts (Pastel de nata) are what we came here for, a personal recommendation from my Aussie/Portugese friends.